Method and machine for treating shoe uppers



Maldl 19 1-2.1. LA CHAPELLE 2,193,197 I mEmofi'AmmAcnmE FOR T REATI iqG sHos UPPERS Filed June a, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 all IA-W

,Zhven?or.

March 1940- ,E. l. LA'CHAPELLE METHQD AND MACHINE FOR TREATING SHQ E UB-EERS 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed June 3, 195a 'J'hverl?ar,

Patented Mar. 12, 1940 psi sites 2,193,197 METHOD AND MACHINE FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS Euclid H. La Chapelle Brockton,

Machinery Corporation,

to United Shoe Mass., assignor Borough of Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New .llersey Application June 3, 1938,, Serial No. 211,559. 13 Claims. (01. 12-97) This invention relates to methods and machines 1 for use in treating shoe uppers and is illustrated herein with reference to the treatment of uppers; to facilitate the pulling over operation before i the uppers are assembled on lasts.

It is customary before assembling an upper on a last to stretch its marginal portion lengthwise from the toe portion to the heel end in order to provide sufiicient surplus material to insure, that the back seam may be located straight heightwise of thelast while also permitting the seam evenly at opposite at the tip line to be positioned sides of the shoe, that is, straight transversely of the shoe. It often happens in joining .the

parts of an upper that either the back seam or the tip seam is set crooked with respect tothe posi tions theyshould occupy in theshoe. In such cases, excessive strains must be exerted on the vamp portion of the upper in the pulling-over or lasting operations to relocate these seams in their proper positions. Even then the results are not always satisfactory because when the strains are relieved the upper will tend to return to its original condition and thus cause one or the other V improved methodof treating a shoe upperprew,

.of these seams to become dislocated.

In stretching a shoe upper lengthwise, .how- I ever, it is important that the stretching be conportion because the distance between the throat of the vamp and the tip line of the upper is predetermined with great precision and must be retained to insure the proper fit of the shoe. Moreover, only the portion of the upper rearwardly of its tip line and preferably from the throat of the vamp reerwardly should be stretched in order that a straight tip seam may be insured. Since Vamps are usually cut across the grain to resist lengthwise stretching, it will be seen that not only must the stretching operation be performed with considerable careto avoid damaging the upper, but also that substantial force must be exerted to obtain satisfactory results.

Objects of the present invention are to provide an improved method of stretching shoe uppers lengthwise preparatory to assembling them on lasts in the practice of which efiicient and accurate results can be obtained, and to provide an improved machine adapted for use in carrying out the method.

To the attainment of these objects, and in accordance with one of its features, the invention provides an improved machine having means thereon for gripping a shoe upper substantially between the throat of the vamp and the tipline, preparatory to assembling. the upper on a last, and having further means. for exerting on the" upper a succession of lengthwise yielding pulling impulses, thereby stretching the upper lengthwise from the gripped portion rearwardlys As herein illustrated, the means for gripping the upper comprises a pair of members having curved surfaces provided with shoulders for engaging the 10 edge face of the toe piece of the upper along the tip line and holding the tip line in a straight position transversely of the upper. Complemental members are provided for clamping the upper against these curved surfaces. The clamp- 15 ing means is arranged to grip the opposite marginal portions only of the upper in the area indicated, thereby leaving the throat portion of the vamp unsupported. The pulling meansis arranged to reciprocate constantly and to exert on pg paratory to assembling it on a last in which the upper is gripped between the throat. of the vamp and'the tip line only and, while the gripped portion is held in a fixed position, the upper is subjectedto asuccession of lengthwise pulling impulses exerted yieldingly and acting to stretch. the marginal portions only of the upper lengthwise.

With the above and other objects and features in view the invention will now be described in 5 connection with the accompanying drawings and will thereafter be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, of a machine embodying the present invention;

Fig; 2 is a plan View of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1, showing a series of operating stations mounted on a single base;

Fig. 3 is a sectional detail view taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a detail sectional View showing one of the shoe upper gripping members and the heel part engaging or stretching member in their inoperative positions, the upper having been introduced for engagement by said gripping mem- 5Q bers;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4, showing the forepart of the upper clamped by the gripping members, the stretching member being shown in its inoperative position, as in Fig. 4; 55

Fig. 6 is a front elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. 5, with the stretching member engaging the upper and stretching it lengthwise;

Fig. '7 is a perspective view of one of the upper gripping members; and

Fig. 8 is a longitudinal section through the gripping member and its supporting arm.

The machine is provided with a base I and two upstanding side brackets 2 which support the operating instrumentalities. Upon the upper ends of the side brackets 2 is acrossbar 3 connecting the two brackets and carrying a plurality of forwardly extending brackets 4, each bracket 4 being rigidly secured to the crossbar by a screw and having mounted at its forward end a pair of upper gripping members 5, preferably composed of hard rubber and being circular or oval in cross section to present curved upper engaging surfaces. Each member 5 is secured to its bracket 4 by a screw 6 having a square shank I extending the full width of the gripping member and having an enlarged head 8 engaging the outer end of said member. As shown in the drawings, each gripping member 5 has a flat surface S on its upper side, adapted to engage the forward portion of the upper in the vicinity of its tip line and it also has a shoulder or ledge Ill thereon adapted to engage the edge face of the toe piece of the upper, as best shown in Figs. 4 and 5. In setting up the machine the gripping members 5 are rotated to locate the face 9 in proper horizontal position and the screws 6 are prevented from turning in the brackets 4 by transverse pins l I,as shown in Figs. 6.

Thecoacting gripper member 12 of each station comprises a short bar secured across the ends of. a U-shaped bracket I3 by screws l4. The bracket I3 is fastened by a nut to the upper end of an upright rod l5 slidable at its upper portion in a bracket l6 extending rearwardly from the crossbar 3, the rod being also slidably supported near its lower end in a bracket I! (Fig. 1) extending rearwardly from a crossbar 18 on the machine frame. Interposed between the under side of the bracket l6 and a collar l9 secured to the rod I5 is a spring 20 for normally holding the coacting member l2 in closed position upon the shoe upper. The rod l5 extends below the bracket l7 and is connected to a foot treadle 2| whereby the member l2 may be raised from the member 5 to permit the introduction of a shoe upper, as shown in Fig. 1.

A rear or heel part engaging member 22 is formed integral with an upright rod 23 mounted for vertical reciprocating movement in a hole 24 in the upper end of a housing 25. At its lower end the housing 25 has a cap 26 screwed thereon and, at the lower end of said cap, is a guide hole 2'! through which the lower end of the rod 23 passes. To prevent the heel part engaging member 22 from turning in the housing the rod 23 is provided with a key 28, as best shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and a stop collar 29 is pinned to the rod 23 to limit its downward movement relatively to the housing 25. The lower end of the rod 23 is threaded, as shown at 30 (Fig. l), to receive nuts 3| and, interposed between the upper wall of the housing and the nuts 3|, is a compression spring 32 which serves to hold the member 22 yieldingly in position relatively to the shoe upper gripping members 5 and I2, so that the vamp of the upper may be stretched yieldingly from its heel end to its forepart. The housing 25 is supported in a bracket 33 which extends rearwardly of the machine and is secured to a bar 34 mounted on a slide 35 which moves in vertical guideways 35 secured to the frame 2. The slide 35 has a rearwardly extending arm 31 to which is pivotally connected a rod 38. The lower end of the rod 38 is pivoted at 39 to a crank arm 40 secured to a shaft 4|, the shaft 4| having a gear 42 thereon which meshes with a gear 43. The gear 43 is secured to a shaft 44 mounted in a bracket 45 secured to the base of the machine. The shaft 44 carries a driving pulley 46 which may be continuously driven from any usual source of power by a belt 41.

In the operation of the machine, the operator first determines the correct position of the back seam of the upper relatively to the side portions of the vamp and, while holding the back seam straight with one hand, he grasps the toe piece of the upper with his other hand and, with his foot, depresses the treadle to elevate the coacting gripper member l2 (Fig. 1) from the fixed member 5. While still maintaining the back seam in a straight position and holding the heel portion of the upper away from the stretching member 22, the operator passes the toe piece through the open space between the two members 5. He then bends the forepart of the upper at an angle to the rear portion and lays the forepart in proper position over the gripper members 5, as indicated in Fig. 4. While maintaining the upper (and its lining) taut from the back seam to the toe end, and while holding the heel portion of the upper away from the stretching member 22, the operator releases the treadle 2| to permit the coacting member I2 to descend into clamping engagement with the vamp of the upper rearwardly of the tip line, as shown in Fig. 5. When the member 22 has reached its upper limit of movement, the operator passes the heel portion of the upper thereunder (Fig. 5) and, while the upper is being stretched by the constant and yielding reciprocating action of the heel engaging and stretching member 22 (Figs. 5 and 6), he performs the same operations at the next station of the machine. When all the stations have been provided with uppers, the operator returns to the first station and depresses the treadle to elevate the coacting member l2, thereby permitting him to remove the stretched shoe upper from the machine and to introduce another upper into that station.

It will be seen from the foregoing description that, in the practice of the method herein disclosed of stretching a shoe upper lengthwise before assembling it on a last preparatory to the pulling over operation, the forepart of the upper is bent at an angle to its rear portion and its marginal portions only between the throat of the vamp and the tip line or seam are clamped between curved surfaces which hold the upper firmly in a fixed position. In this way the marginal portions only of the upper from the throat of the vamp to the rear end of the upper are stretched lengthwise without a corresponding stretch taking place in the throat portion of the vamp. The successive yielding pulling impulses of the stretching member 22 stretch the marginal portions of the upper yieldingly without putting excessive strains upon the vamp which would tend to distort the tip seam or back seam of the upper after the stretching operation is completed. Consequently, the pulling over operation is greatly facilitated since these seams may be positioned properly on the last while still leaving sufiicient material between the throat of the vamp and the heel portion of the upper to fit the hollow or arch at the shank portion of the last.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A machine for operating upon shoe uppers having, in combination, means for gripping a shoe upper between the throat of the vamp and the tip line, and power operated means movable to impart to the upper a succession of lengthwise pulling impulses, thereby stretching said upper from the throat of the vamp rearwardly.

2. A machine for operating upon shoe uppers having, in combination, means for gripping a shoe upper between the throat of the vamp and the tip line only, and means movable relatively to the gripping means and arranged to engage the heel portion of the upper to impart to said portion a succession of yielding pulls longitudinally of the upper, thereby stretching the upper lengthwise.

3 A machine for operating upon a shoe upper preparatory to assembling it on a last having, in i combination, means for clamping the upper between the throat of the vamp and the tip line only and holding the clamped portions in a fixed position, and means for exerting on theheel portion of said upper a succession of yielding lengthwise pulls, thereby stretching the upper from the throat of the vamp to its heel end.

4. A machine for operating upon shoe uppers having, in combination, means for gripping themarginal portions only of an upper between the throat of the vamp and the tip line, and power operated means for exerting on the upper a succession of lengthwise pulling impulses, thereby stretching the marginal portions of the upper lengthwise.

5. A machine for operating upon shoe uppers having, in combination, means for gripping an upper between curved surfaces engaging the upper between the throat of the vamp and the tip line only, and means for imparting to the upper longitudinal tension, thereby stretching the up-, per lengthwise, said means being arranged to move relatively to the gripping means during the stretching operation.

6. A machine for operating upon shoe uppers having, in combination, means for gripping the opposite marginal portions only of a shoe upper between curved surfaces engaging the upper between the throat of the vamp and the tip line and bending said portions at a substantial angle to the rest of the upper, and means for yieldingly exerting on the upper a succession of lengthwise pulling impulses, thereby stretching the marginal portions of the upper from the throat of the vamp rearwardly.

7. A machine for operating upon a shoe upper preparatory to assembling it on a last having, in combination, gripping members adapted to engage the opposite marginal portions of the forepart of the upper between the throat of the vamp and. the tip line only and to hold said portions in a curved position with the fo-repart of the upper bent at an angle to the rest of the upper, and

a constantly reciprocating stretching member for engaging the heel portion of the upper and exerting thereon a succession of yielding lengthwise pulls, thereby stretching the marginal portions only of the upper lengthwise from the throat of the vamp to its heel end.

8. A machine for operating upon a shoe upper before it is assembled on a last having, in combimarginal portions a shoe upper surfaces the opposite nation, members for gripping the upper between the throat of the vamp and the tip line only, means for engaging the edge face of the toe piece of the upper along the tip line and positioning the upper on said members, and means for imparting to the rear portion of said upper a succession of yielding pulling impulses lengthwise of. the upper, thereby stretching the upper from the throat of the vamp rearwardly.

9. A machine for operating upon a shoe upper preparatory to assembling it on a last having, in combination, a pair of members for engaging the opposite marginal portions only of the upper and holding them in curved positions with the fore-.

part of the upper bent at an angle to the rest of the upper, said. members engaging the upper between the throat of the vamp and the tip line only, means on said members for engaging the edge face of the toe piece of the upper and thereby determining the positionof the vamp on said members, mechanism for yieldingly clamping said against said members, and constantly reciprocating means forengaging the inside of the heel portion of the upper and imparting thereto a succession of yielding lengthwise pulling impulses, thereby stretching the marginal portion of the upper lengthwise from the throat of the vamp to its heel end.

10. That improvement in methods of treating a shoe upper preparatory to assembling it on a last which comprises, clamping the upper between the throat or the vamp and the tip line only, and engaging the heel portion of the upper and imparting thereto a succession of lengthwise pulling impulses while the vamp portion remains continuously clamped to stretch the upper from the throat of the vamp rearwardly.

11. That improvement in methods of treating preparatory. to assembling it on a last which comprises, clamping the opposite man gi'nal portions only of the upper between the throat of the vamp and the tip line of the upper, and while maintaining theclamped portions of the upper in their clamped position, exerting on the heel portion of the upper a succession. of yielding lengthwise pulls, thereby stretching the marginal portions only of the upper lengthwise.

12. That improvement in methods of treating a shoe upper preparatory to assembling it on a last which comprises, gripping the upper between curved surfaces at the portion extending between the throat of the vamp and the tip line only, and engaging the rear portion of the upper and imparting thereto a succession of yielding pulling impulses exerted lengthwise of the upper while the gripped portion of the upper is maintained in its gripped position, thereby stretching the upper lengthwise.

13. That improvement in methods of treating a shoe upper preparatory to assembling it on a last which comprises, clamping between curved marginal portions only of the upper over an area extending from the throat of the vamp to the tip line of the upper, thereby bending the forepart of. the upper at an angle to its rear portion, positioning said marginal portions between said surfaces face of the toe piece of the upper along the tip line, and exerting on the heel portion of said upper a succession of lengthwise yielding pulling impulses, thereby stretching the marginal portions only of the upper from the throat of the vamp to the heel end of the upper.

' EUCLID I. LA CHAPELLE.

by engaging the edge 

